Last weekend, Nadia & Lorraine (Ireland) and Tracy and I decided we deserved (an needed) a break, and so much thanks to Tracy's convincing I joined everybody at the train station on Saturday morning to head over to Bath (about a half hour away from Bristol).
Needless to say, I was pretty excited about the train station- I've been on one once before, so the fascination will probably take at least fifteen to twenty more rides to wear off. Brisk, chill morning air, hills just visible out the open tunnel on either side- it felt fantastic to be out of our rooms!
Since Tracy had already visited at least twice before, and Lorraine didn't seem interested if she couldn't actually go swimming in it, we split up for a bit so Nadia and I could go check out the Roman Baths!
The stone fragments in the photo above were apparently once mounted high up, crowning the entrance to the Bath's temple. The museum had mounted them on the wall, and projected what the original might have looked like onto the remaining bits and pieces. Interesting fact for anybody who didn't know, although we think of the Roman stuff as being all polished and grey, they actually loved colors- everything was originally very bright! The paint just wore off with time.
Also interesting, apparently nobody really knows why that man's head could be there! There was a theory going on about how he must be a gorgon (there appear to be some snakes intertwined in his beard), but the gorgons were women, and this is decidedly male--this theory seemed a touch forced to me. The other theory loosely guessed he was some kind of water deity, since his hair billowed out around his head like he was in a bath. It seems his identity has been lost to time.
The set up of the museum around the baths was now a little maze-like, so it became tricky to keep track of exactly where we were. I do know, though, that straight ahead was the original entrance to the Baths- the steps are literally worn into the ground from pilgrim's feet (and, I suppose, a little bit of time). Off to the right though, were the remains of the original temple, which could only be entered by priests.
One of the most exciting things they had recovered was this gold-encrusted head of Minerva (they guess she originally had a war helmet as well). Nobody but the priests could have entered her temple, let alone set eyes on her. In the dim temple, they would have had to approach this sculpture on its pedestal, and kindled the flame that was always kept burning by her feet.
The real thrill came, though, when we suddenly found ourselves out in the open air again, walking by the baths. It was a cool day, so steam was billowing everywhere, birds taking off in sudden flight, the green water still as glass-- about as magical as it gets, people.
What always continues to shock me is how here, they just assume you won't be an idiot. No ropes, no fences, no guards, nothing- just a simple sign gently reminding you to please... not be an idiot. Nadia nearly stumbled into some of the water where it flowed into the bath-- it was all completely open. Beautiful, stunning, ancient.
This was apparently what was, essentially, a kind of "wishing well" still here from the baths as well. However, what the Romans generally tossed in were not coins, but curses. If somebody stole something from you especially, you would write the offense on a sheet of lead, along with a name of suspects just to help the goddess along, and then toss it into the pool. Best part? Brilliant science allows us to READ the curses today!!! My personal favorite: "Docimedes has lost two gloves. He asks that the person who has stolen them should lose him minds and his eyes in the temple where she appoints." Dude must have really like those gloves. Nadia and I both tossed in a coin as well (yes, they let you do that, and yes, we made wishes not curses)!
We rounded up the day by visiting Jane Austen's house in Bath. As delightfully cheesy as the merchandise is (who can blame them, I heart Mr.Darcy too), Jane Austen was an incredible woman, and I was thrilled to be able to go on the tour.
Haha, we got there just in time to catch one of the actors before he had to head home. Confession time: After I snapped this photo, he jokingly said (and demonstrated) "ha! We should have perhaps done a Charlie's Angels pose, huh, ladies?" I will FOREVER regret not shouting "I'll do it!"
Finally, walking home that evening through the streets of Bath, all the Christmas lights were up, and all the buildings there were smooth, polished, with such a lovely, light grey sheen- the detailed lights were perfect for the city. Moral of the story: Europe is gorgeous.
Highlights (?):
Umm... Santa?? "Ted's Stocking Thriller" store window did not portray the... traditional Christmas St. Nick.
A little hard to see, but what you are looking at is the intersection of "Queen Street" and "Gay Street" ... *tee-hee*
